This morning we went to the judge's office and signed the final decree. Then Patrice took Paul to get the birth certificate and finally used one of the billion fotocopias in the city. Sofia and I met up with them again at the passport office. We got very, very lucky, because tomorrow is a holiday, and the passport office was closing early today. They were able to rush us through so we didn't have to wait till Monday to get the passport. This means we could buy our plane tickets to Bogota today for a Sunday morning flight. This evening we had to meet back at the attorney's office to turn in some papers and pay her. She wished us much happiness as a family, and we could leave her office feeling very excited and great sense of relief.
Now we just need to get in touch with our representative in Bogota to see when we can get the required appt. with the embassy doctor and predict when we will have Sofia's visa so we can change our flight home. But for right now we are celebrating!!!
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Museo Taminango
Here are some photos of a museum we visited. Museo Taminango de Artes y Tradiciones Populares de Narino. This is the first house built in Pasto and was turned into a museum. The house was constructed with wood and covered with mud and straw, and owned by a Spanish General. The printing press inside was one of the first printing presses in Colombia, which made it very important. Paul should have written this post since he was able to listen to Patrice translate what the guide was telling us while I had to keep an eye on Sofia. She likes to run...
courtyard
flour mill
stairs to mill
river through garden and mill
wood instrument
wood instrument
vertebrae inset in stone near doorway
(used for cleaning off shoes)
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Odds and Ends
This morning Patrice told us that he talked to our lawyer and that our court meeting might be today or tommorrow. Seeing as it is 10:46 p.m. as I'm typing this it looks like tommorrow. He also put his hand on our door frame and said " Knock on wood", crossed his fingers and finished with the sign of the cross, so we'll see. Once we have our meeting with the court we have to get Sofia's passport (at a Government Building) and then we can fly back to Bogota, go to the American embassy and then hopefully go home. It's all worth it , as Sofia is a blast . She can be funny, manipulative, charming, angry, hungry, destructive, flirty, coy, adventerous, demanding, and sleepy all within a half hour peroid. Just like me, so we get along pretty good.
Here are a few random things that didn't fit in any other blogs but I found interesting. I've mentioned before the wild dogs here, and have come to really appreciate them. I've never approached one but they seem pretty cool. The thing I like most about them is that you can see Darwinism at work. About 10,000 years ago there was wild dog, which was about 35 pounds and non descript. Since then humans manipulated, through breeding, everything from Chihuahuas to St. Bernards. When dogs are allowed to run free and breed at will, the dogs that survive are about 35 pounds and non descript. Little tiny designer dogs and huge dogs simply can't survive here. I am surprised though that these dogs don't form packs (as is natural for them) and attack and eat anything they want. But they don't. What I don't appreciate is the fact that they crap all over the sidewalks, streets, park grass and everywhere else. It's hard enough to try to walk around here with the traffic without making split second decisions between stepping in dog crap or getting hit by a cab.
Another thing we see in Pasto, and every other mountain town we've been to is armed soldiers at nearly every other corner. It's reasuring and disconcerting at the same time. Reasuring because they seem pretty nice and make you feel like they are here for your safety, and disconcerting because apparently there is the need for armed guards at every other corner. They are all in full military uniforms and carry weapons ranging from hip holstered revolvers (rookies ?) to clip fed assault rifles, uzis, or like the guy that is by the park behind the hotel we take Sofia to every day, a short barrel, stockless, pistol grip, pump action shot-gun. We see this guy every day and he is really nice. He speaks enough English to say to me "Good morning sir" When I say "Buenos Dias". I wanted to ask if I can get my picture taken with him but my Spanish is so poor that so far I'm following a good general rule, "When in doubt that you might offend the guy with a shot-gun, always err on the side of caution." But I'd still like to try before we leave Pasto. (watch for my next post:" Why I got shot in Pasto")
As I've mentioned before the traffic here is insane. Trying to cross busy downtown streets with a toddler in a stroller is a task to say the least. Sofia gets upset if I push the stroller, so Erin gets that job. Also if Sofia gets more upset and wants to be carried, Erin gets that job too, as Sofia won't let me carry her yet. Sofia weighs a good 29 pounds so Erin has been getting quite the work-out here. Sometimes we wait 10 minutes to cross a street. There are no cross walks with lights telling you when to cross, and stop signs/traffic lights seem to be more of a suggestion than a rule. Also traffic lights here go from green to orange to red when you need to stop, but also go from red to orange to green when you need to go. So everyone at a red light has an orange warning light to let them know the light is about to turn green. Cue horns. People here use horns for everything. One beep can mean "I'm passing you/I'm going through an intersection/watch out for me." Two beeps seem to mean "Thanks for the heads up/I see you/ Hello!!" Three or more beeps seems to mean "You're in my way!/ Why aren't cars moving!/My car came equipped with a horn and I'll be damned if I'm not going to use it constantly!!!" So you can imagine how fun that is every day while walking with a toddler in a stroller.
The hotel owner Patrice (our interpreter/ driver / tour guide ) took us to a number of different local craft shops since we've been here. These shops have been incredible. These have all been people thet have learned a craft/trade instead of going to school, sometimes things that have been passed down father to son for generations. A couple of times we went to shops where the people worked with wood. Patrice, I'm sure just to build some common ground, would tell them that I was a carpenter, and the people would say "Ah bien bien." But there is always a big difference. I appreciate Patrice saying that as a way to introduce me but these people are not carpenters in the sense of the word you or I would recognize. I can frame a wall, hang a door or build a deck. These people are artists. They carve 15 foot tall crucifixes out of a single block of wood. They make intricate wood boxes and furniture and candle holders that I could never even hope to do. I really appreciate Patrice trying to build some common ground but it would be akin to him introducing me to the Lakers and saying "Paul bought a basketball last week, he is a basketball player too."
So far everyone here has been more than helpful and polite. I have been getting some funny looks for wearing shorts, when most people wear jeans a coat and often a scarf. I wish I could explain that I'm from Wisconsin and haven't seen 60 degree weather in 5 months, but at least I can wear shorts.
Another funny thing is the motocycle riders. There must be a helmet law, as they almost all wear helmets, but they don't wear them right. Everyone has the full face helmet that comes down around the mouth, but they push them up on their heads so the mouth part is on their forhead. It kind of seems to defeat the purpose, as the slightest accident would send the helmet flying . I also often see motorcyclists wearing construction hard hats, and have seen a few times people wearing those cheap plastic major league baseball "helmets" that I used to wear as a kid.
To end , here is a link to the website of the hotel Erin Sofia and I are at. You can see pictures of the outside, inside, owner and staff. The owner Patrice and his staff have been helpful and accomodating far beyond anything I could say.
Paul
http://lamaisondelejecutivo.com/
Here are a few random things that didn't fit in any other blogs but I found interesting. I've mentioned before the wild dogs here, and have come to really appreciate them. I've never approached one but they seem pretty cool. The thing I like most about them is that you can see Darwinism at work. About 10,000 years ago there was wild dog, which was about 35 pounds and non descript. Since then humans manipulated, through breeding, everything from Chihuahuas to St. Bernards. When dogs are allowed to run free and breed at will, the dogs that survive are about 35 pounds and non descript. Little tiny designer dogs and huge dogs simply can't survive here. I am surprised though that these dogs don't form packs (as is natural for them) and attack and eat anything they want. But they don't. What I don't appreciate is the fact that they crap all over the sidewalks, streets, park grass and everywhere else. It's hard enough to try to walk around here with the traffic without making split second decisions between stepping in dog crap or getting hit by a cab.
Another thing we see in Pasto, and every other mountain town we've been to is armed soldiers at nearly every other corner. It's reasuring and disconcerting at the same time. Reasuring because they seem pretty nice and make you feel like they are here for your safety, and disconcerting because apparently there is the need for armed guards at every other corner. They are all in full military uniforms and carry weapons ranging from hip holstered revolvers (rookies ?) to clip fed assault rifles, uzis, or like the guy that is by the park behind the hotel we take Sofia to every day, a short barrel, stockless, pistol grip, pump action shot-gun. We see this guy every day and he is really nice. He speaks enough English to say to me "Good morning sir" When I say "Buenos Dias". I wanted to ask if I can get my picture taken with him but my Spanish is so poor that so far I'm following a good general rule, "When in doubt that you might offend the guy with a shot-gun, always err on the side of caution." But I'd still like to try before we leave Pasto. (watch for my next post:" Why I got shot in Pasto")
As I've mentioned before the traffic here is insane. Trying to cross busy downtown streets with a toddler in a stroller is a task to say the least. Sofia gets upset if I push the stroller, so Erin gets that job. Also if Sofia gets more upset and wants to be carried, Erin gets that job too, as Sofia won't let me carry her yet. Sofia weighs a good 29 pounds so Erin has been getting quite the work-out here. Sometimes we wait 10 minutes to cross a street. There are no cross walks with lights telling you when to cross, and stop signs/traffic lights seem to be more of a suggestion than a rule. Also traffic lights here go from green to orange to red when you need to stop, but also go from red to orange to green when you need to go. So everyone at a red light has an orange warning light to let them know the light is about to turn green. Cue horns. People here use horns for everything. One beep can mean "I'm passing you/I'm going through an intersection/watch out for me." Two beeps seem to mean "Thanks for the heads up/I see you/ Hello!!" Three or more beeps seems to mean "You're in my way!/ Why aren't cars moving!/My car came equipped with a horn and I'll be damned if I'm not going to use it constantly!!!" So you can imagine how fun that is every day while walking with a toddler in a stroller.
The hotel owner Patrice (our interpreter/ driver / tour guide ) took us to a number of different local craft shops since we've been here. These shops have been incredible. These have all been people thet have learned a craft/trade instead of going to school, sometimes things that have been passed down father to son for generations. A couple of times we went to shops where the people worked with wood. Patrice, I'm sure just to build some common ground, would tell them that I was a carpenter, and the people would say "Ah bien bien." But there is always a big difference. I appreciate Patrice saying that as a way to introduce me but these people are not carpenters in the sense of the word you or I would recognize. I can frame a wall, hang a door or build a deck. These people are artists. They carve 15 foot tall crucifixes out of a single block of wood. They make intricate wood boxes and furniture and candle holders that I could never even hope to do. I really appreciate Patrice trying to build some common ground but it would be akin to him introducing me to the Lakers and saying "Paul bought a basketball last week, he is a basketball player too."
So far everyone here has been more than helpful and polite. I have been getting some funny looks for wearing shorts, when most people wear jeans a coat and often a scarf. I wish I could explain that I'm from Wisconsin and haven't seen 60 degree weather in 5 months, but at least I can wear shorts.
Another funny thing is the motocycle riders. There must be a helmet law, as they almost all wear helmets, but they don't wear them right. Everyone has the full face helmet that comes down around the mouth, but they push them up on their heads so the mouth part is on their forhead. It kind of seems to defeat the purpose, as the slightest accident would send the helmet flying . I also often see motorcyclists wearing construction hard hats, and have seen a few times people wearing those cheap plastic major league baseball "helmets" that I used to wear as a kid.
To end , here is a link to the website of the hotel Erin Sofia and I are at. You can see pictures of the outside, inside, owner and staff. The owner Patrice and his staff have been helpful and accomodating far beyond anything I could say.
Paul
http://lamaisondelejecutivo.com/
Funny Park
Video clips of two of Sofia's favorite rides at Funny Park....the airplane and ferris wheel.
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Laguna de La Cocha
The other day the hotel owner Patrice told us about a friend of his that runs a tourist business here who could take us on a day trip over the mountain to a small village on a large lake. We said we'd be interested and Patrice set it up for us to go Sunday morning at 9:30 am. Patrice's friend Herman showed up in a taxi driven by David , who apparently drives Herman to the lake often. The drive took about 45 minutes because a few miles outside Pasto the mountian roads are unpaved and incredibly winding. We went up and around the mountain for about half an hour and then down the other side for about 15 minutes. The drives are incredibly scenic if a bit 
harrowing, but fun for the unique experince none the less. On the way Herman told us about all kinds of local legend and history as well as asking us a lot about ourselves. He is a native of Colombia but looks European in comparison to most Colombians. He spent 16 years in America, mostly in Manhattan, driving tour busses for Colombian and Mexican tourists. When he asked where we were from in America we said "Wisconsin, near Green Bay." He said "Oh Wisconsin is that near Nevada?" I said "No it's up near Canada, North of Chicago." Anywhere I've traveled foreign or domestic, people always know Chicago so its an easy reference point. Then he 
asked what was a big city in Wisconsin and we said Milwaukee. For the third time since we've been here, from the the third different person, from three different countries, he lit up and said "Oh like the TV show what is it called!" I answered out of habit "Happy Days." "Yes yes!" he answered "And the other one?" "Laverne and Shirley" I said. He laughed "I know Milwaukee!" So a hearty thanks to Ritchie, Fonzie, Potsie and Ralph Malph for putting my home state into perspective for the rest of the world. I also told him we were known for our dairy production and beer (he asked what beer and I said Miller which he recognized) and for Harley Davidson 
motorcycles. He was surprised and impressed by that.When we got to the village on the lake he led us around on a small tour and it was beautiful. As opposed to Pasto, a big city made all of brick and stone, this villiage (El Puerto) was entirely constructed of wood. The houses were generally two story bungalow types and painted all different colors. They had porches on the ground floor and balconies on the second. I felt like I could have moved in and been happy. There is such a beauty to the simplicity of life in these mountain towns that is so appealing. But also it's like being on vacation anywhere and I'm sure if I
did live there for a week I'd be crying for a delivery pizza and a store that sold bass strings. Nontheless it was a sight to see on this fantastic lake with a canal surrounding the edge of town. The design of the buildings and the dirt/mud road was like an old west town in a cowboy movie.After a brief tour of town Herman took us over to a man that owned a long boat who could take us out to the island on the lake. The island is considered sacred to the local tribe of the area and is a wildlife preserve. The boat we were on was about 30 feet long and maybe 6 feet wide
with an outboard motor that the owner operated manually. The top of the boat only sat about 6 inches off the water. It had a little tin and wood canopy on the front that came in handy on the way back as it then rained pretty heavily. The boat ride out to the island was lots of fun , and Sofia seemed to enjoy it as well. Once we got to the island (Isla La Corota) the first thing we saw off the dock was a beautiful church. The doors were opened and an eerie blue glow was visibile in the back behind the altar. The church was called La Virgin de Lourdes and the inside was all wood and stunning to see. Once we got inside I saw that the blue glow was from two vertical 
neon blue tube lights on either side of a statue of the Virgin Mary. This looked a good deal out of place in such a beautiful little church on such a beautiful little island. The "Neon Madonna" notwithstanding Erin said a prayer and I made 3 wishes , which according to Colombian custom you are allowed to ask whenever you enter a church for the first time. Then we proceeded up a path to the park rangers office. The park ranger gave a nice speech , which Herman translated for us , about the park and the plants and animals within. When he finished his speech he said (as translated to us) "Welcome to Isla La Corota." Herman said "Gracias Senior" Erin said "Muchos 
Gracias" and I in typical fashion blurted out "Buenos Dias!" (good morning). He gave me an odd look that I am all too accustomed to and off we went into the jungle.There was a path through the jungle about 5 feet wide with wood branch railings on either side and inlaid with timbers, much like railroad ties to walk on. A few yards into the path was a sign in Spanish that Herman translated to us that said "The forest has it's own music, the silence here is like a million sounds." It's hard to describe the feeling I got on this walk. Being in the mountians , when there are no mountains in Wisconsin is one thing , but being in this jungle when there is nothing comparable in the United States is another. Sadly there are fewer and fewer places on Earth like this any more. It felt like being in church, as opposed to the church on the island, which felt more like being in a disco club. It's hard to see nature in such a raw and pristine state without feeling like such a small and insignificant part of something so much more grand. Below are some video clips of the boat ride to the island and part of our walk.
About halfway into the 30 minute walk across the the island we came to a tree that Herman had told us about. It is very sacred to the local tribe (the Quillasingas) and supposedly if you hug the tree for a minute or two you get great energy. The tribe Shaman goes to the tree often to get power to pass on to his people. I certainly don't want sound dismissive of anyone elses beleifs , especially after just being in a Catholic church that was lit up like a 70's bar, but I hugged the tree and only came away with a lot of wet moss on my sweatshirt. Maybe , like a lot of things, you just have to believe.
When we reached the other side of the island there was a round deck about 30 feet off the lake with an amazing view. We rested there and then turned around and walked the same path back to the docks where our boat was waiting.
On the way back to the mainland our boat driver took us around the island but it was raining pretty hard so we didn't see much. But once back on land Herman took us to a resaurant for lunch. This was one of our only real tastes of local cuisine, as breakfast at the hotel is eggs and fruit, lunch is take-out chicken or pizza , and dinner at the hotel is French style food. All of which has been delicious but lunch today was a real treat. It was grilled trout from the lake, and I'm not usually a fan of seafood but it was fantastic. The fish was so fresh and so perfectly seasoned and came with some french fries, rice, a grilled Plantain, salad, fresh fruit juice and a desert of local fruit and cheese. We ate on the second story of the restaurant ,the front of which was open overlooking the canal and you would be hard searched to find a better, more exotic locale or meal anywhere.
After lunch we had about 20 mnutes before the taxi came back for us and Herman led us to a small shop to buy some local hand crafted gifts to bring home. When the taxi came we all loaded in and began the trip home. From the lake we went up the mountain for about 15 minutes and then down the other side. Going down was where the roads got pretty bad. As soon as we got around the mountain and started to head down, I saw our taxi driver look up and make the sign of the cross. For me this is pretty high on the list of things I don't want to see my driver do. And while I'm all for faith, I would have thought he might have wanted to stack the odds in his favor by wearing his seat-belt. Then again maybe he didn't wear it as a show of solidarity to Erin, Sofia and Me because the seat-belts in the back of the taxi had previously been torn out. Either way we made it back safe and sound and both agreed it was about the coolest thing we've done here yet. Herman is an amzing person which is no surprise considering that he is friends with Patrice.
It sounds like we are getting close to coming home and while we all look forward to it I will definitely miss Pasto. After 3 weeks here, and being with Sofia for the first time, it feels like home in its own way. I can't believe the progress the three of us are making together, especially Erin with Sofia, it's mostly a lot of fun and an adventure also. But we really miss our freinds and family and our dog Sam. I'm sure her and Sofia will be quick friends, and being back in our own home and not all in one small room will be a relief for all of us.
Paul
P.S. Tomorrow or the next day I am going to try a local delicasy for lunch, guinnea pig. I'll take lots of pictures .
Museum of Science and Games
This is the other museum we visited with science displays and games for kids. Sofia loves to push buttons, so she had a blast here as there are plenty of buttons to push on all the displays.
Museo del Carnaval
Below are some pictures from the Museo del Carnaval of floats used in the parade. For some reason Sofia was very afraid of these. 
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